Les genévriers Thurifères

No need to travel far and wide to find this endemic species of remarkable trees that usually grow only in the Moroccan Atlas Mountains! From the village of Saint-Crépin, the trail climbs gently through this unique forest: for indeed, the Saint-Crépin juniper forest is one of the only forests of this species in Europe. “Thurifère” literally means “incense-bearer,” because its twigs and cones can give off a strong, fragrant scent, like incense. The gnarled and sturdy form of the junipers makes them the stars of any photo stop—even on the most challenging and barren terrain! Each tree seems alive, like the impressive “elephant tree,” the oldest of the bark-clad giants. Here, some of these hardy and resilient pioneer trees reach heights of 7 to 8 meters! This is all the more impressive given that this species grows very slowly, which means that the large trees have an extraordinary lifespan. It’s sure to be an eye-opening experience on this accessible hike, as you’ll undoubtedly come across trees that are several hundred years old—and even some over 1,000 years old! This route has been developed as an interpretive trail, so you can learn plenty of interesting facts along the way. And if you have the chance, a visit to the medieval village of Saint-Crépin—with its rich architectural and vernacular heritage—is also well worth the detour! In spring and fall, conditions are unpredictable; even without snow, the trail can be icy. Therefore, when in the mountains, the rule of thumb is to “go out well-equipped.” In my backpack, I slip in or clip on: crampons and trekking poles. In winter, the essentials are: snowshoes, poles, gloves, a hat, sunscreen, and… a survival blanket! Experience is key, and knowing when to turn back is sometimes better than taking risks. And for those new to the mountains, we recommend hiring a professional! Before heading out, I check the Météo France Montagnes weather reports and the BERA (avalanche and risk alerts).