Gravel : Echappée vers le silence d’un col

Saint-Crépin reveals the arid mountains of the Briançonnais. From the village, a very long ascent on the south side leads to the Queyras, passing perched hamlets and the Lac du Lauzet.

1 - Saint Crépin, place de l'Etape
In Saint-Crépin, in this month of June, the lavender fields fill the air with the scent of lavender: I leave the warmth of the valley behind me as I climb the asphalt road, with its tight curves, towards Le Villard (D 738). Am I following in the footsteps of an unknown and formidable pass?

2 - Le Villard
I pass through the charming hamlet of Le Villard (1,370 m), where time seems to have had no effect. Only a certain kind of life has come to a halt, the one that revolved around the oven, the chapel, the dairy and the school. Nowadays, a few inhabitants and passing tourists have not let the hamlet fall into oblivion.

3 - The Saint-Michel chapel
Shortly after the Chapelle Saint-Michel, mentioned in the 16th century, the asphalt road comes to an end. A well-groomed track now leads to the lake.

4- La Moussière hamlet
The few houses of "la Moussière" (1790 m) seem to be balanced. The view down the valley is impressive. This spring, following the melting of the snow, the Durance is as wide as a river. It carries grey silt and will not be reflecting its turquoise waters today. The pine forest clears and gives way to a few meadows, not yet alpine pastures, where peaceful cows graze.

5 - Vallon du Lauzet
The path bends to the right and leaves the valley to enter the "Vallon du Lauzet" (1950 m). Here, the straight path takes me into the intimacy of the mountain. I reach a Garden of Eden, where streams flow over moss carpets and alpine meadows that I dare not crush by lying on them. The feeling of isolation grows as the track moves further and further into the lost valley. It's rare to ride on a track leading this far: I almost feel like a globe-trotter.

6 - Bergerie du Spurc
The "bergerie du Spurc" (2092 m) is the last shelter for alpacists before the summit climb. No sound breaks the silence of the mountain. Here, nothing but the wind and my solitude. And there's no mistaking it, I'm on the only path.

7 - Lac du Lauzet
Behind a hillock, "Lac du Lauzet (2265 m)" appears around the last bend, reflecting the arid crest of the Crousas.

8 - Col du Lauzet
I continue past the magnificent lake, leaving the inhabitants of its waters and banks to rest and tranquility. The "Col du Lauzet" (2223 m) opens the door to another world, the Queyras stretches out its arms to me. But it's already late, and I won't be switching to the Val d'Azur via the Col Garnier and its promise of gentleness.

9 - Back to St Crépin
On the way back, I let myself glide effortlessly along the track and road, which never stop descending. In a few minutes, I'll have descended more than 1,350 m...

Don't forget to take plenty of water with you. There are no fountains on the long ascent. The Ségure alpine pasture is heavily herded during the summer months, from late June to early October. I get off my bike well before I come across the herd, so as not to panic the guard dogs.
Before setting off on this hike, which is far from any habitation, make sure you are aware of the risk of thunderstorms, which often occur in late August afternoons.

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