Description
Who hasn't dreamed of one day finding themselves up there in a refuge, far from the hustle and bustle of the world, and staying a night contemplating the stars? In the Val d'Aigues, the La Blanche refuge opened its doors wide to us for a roaming getaway.
Please note: From July 10 to August 18, forestry work is taking place in the Chanteloube Forest area and may affect the route of this gravel trail.
The desire to climb up there, to find solitude, gives me wings: I am the escapee of the heights. I feel completely free on my gravel bike, which embodies this thirst for the great outdoors. For this solo ride, I’ve chosen the La Blanche mountain hut, located beyond Saint-Véran, toward the Tête des Toilies, at an elevation of 2,500 meters.
Day 1
1 - Aiguilles
Setting out on a multi-day ride means cycling differently. The feeling of being self-sufficient and free from all constraints is a reality, since you carry only the bare essentials to go further. For these two days, a saddle bag and a handlebar bag are all I need.
2 – The Bridge
I set off from fairly low down, where the Guil River rages at its fiercest, and cross this impetuous torrent via the “bridge” (1,450 m) below Aiguilles.
3 – Prats Haut
From the old snow front, I take a wide, well-packed forest trail that leads me to “Prats Haut” (1,780 m), a village that, in the past, regularly suffered from avalanches.
4 – Pierre Grosse
I continue on my way to “Pierre Grosse” (1,915 m). The route is pleasant, taking me through all the alpine zones, from the last forested areas to the mountain pastures.
5 – The Agnel Pass Road
I continue along the village’s main street until I reach the Agnel Pass Road. I ride on a road that was built quite late, in 1973. It replaced an ancient path that people had used for centuries.
6 – Le Coin
As I approach “Le Coin” (1,970 m), the road climbs through flower-filled alpine pastures. It winds its way up and leads me to Fontgillarde.
7 – Fontgillarde
It is one of the most remote villages in the Queyras and also one of the highest.
8 – Pont de Lariane
At “Pont de Lariane” (2,020 m), I leave the road to cross the Aigue Agnelle: the route now switches to the other side of the valley, following the stream along a wide, smooth path.
9 – Chalet des Amoureux
At the “Chalet des Amoureux” (1,960 m), I have the chance to grab a refreshment before continuing my journey toward the highest village in Europe, Saint-Véran.
10 – Saint-Véran – The Oratory of Saint-Luce
I drive through the entire village, which is now closed to all motor vehicle traffic. The road ends at the “Oratory of Saint-Luce” (2,040 m), dedicated to the patron saint of shepherds. From here on, only bicycles are allowed to continue along the route.
11 – Clausis Chapel
On the climb to the “Clausis Chapel” (2,399 m), my footprint on the Queyras mountains is minimal. As the day goes on, I become immersed in the scenery. The further I go, the more I realize just how wild this place is.
12 – La Moutière
I ride along a path once used by mountain dwellers to trade with the south, which now winds through the high-altitude plain of “La Moutière” (2,438 m).
13 – La Blanche Mountain Hut
Finally, on the left, the La Blanche mountain hut and the lake of the same name come into view. I step inside; the chalet is cozy and charming. At a mountain hut, you rediscover the joy of simplicity. And you learn to savor these simple pleasures—writing or drawing. The evening fills me with joy in this cozy, snug atmosphere as I savor a platter of Queyras charcuterie and cheese. Around the table, hikers talk about their trails, mountain bikers about their routes, and everyone pays homage to the mountains. The mountain hut is an island of humanity in the middle of an ocean of granite, sandstone, and snow. It enchants the soul and brings people’s hearts together.
Day 2
1 – Refuge de la Blanche
The next day, I leave the mountain hut with a touch of regret. How sweet it was… to do nothing, to savor the present moment, and to listen to the sounds of the mountains, sitting before this primal spectacle of our world…. The return to Aiguilles takes place in the spirit of the end of a journey, my mind filled with soothing images.
2 – La Chalp
Shortly after Saint-Véran, I take the trail that runs along the Aigue Blanche, leading to “La Chalp” (1,768 m); my body is tired, but my soul is at peace.
3 – La Rua
From La Chalp, I take the only road that connects with the one coming from the Col Agnel. I make a brief detour into La Rua and continue the descent.
4 – Château-Ville-Vieille
The road from the Col Agnel joins the Guil Valley. One bridge, and here I am at the roundabout, where I stop to enjoy a good cup of coffee and a croissant at the bakery.
5 – Aiguilles
Now all I have to do is take the D 947, which follows the Guil River upstream to Aiguilles, marking the end of this journey. The Queyras has given me so much: its diversity, its authenticity, its wildness. Arriving in Aiguilles, as happy as Odysseus, I return from this beautiful journey into the heart of the magnificent mountains with a light heart.
After an overnight stay at the refuge (booking recommended during the high season, from June 10 to September 30 and December 15 to April 10), we'll take the same route back down to Saint-Véran, where we'll take the easy road to Ville-Vieille. At the traffic circle, it's cool to head back up towards Aiguilles.
Before setting off on these two-day hikes, it's a good idea to be aware of the risk of thunderstorms, which often occur in late August afternoons.
Environment
- Riverside
- Waterside
- Mountain view
